Presenting our review of the Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base V2 Servo for the PC and PlayStation 4. The base can be purchased from Fanatec for $599.95 in the US or 749.95€ in the EU.
As the name suggests, this is the updated version of the original CSW V1 that came out a few years ago. Fanatec says that the V2 is not only stronger and smoother than the V1 but is more reliable.
What’s also different from the V1 now is that Fanatec offers a plethora of wheel options thanks to the Universal Hub and new Universal Hub for the Xbox One. There are also a handful of wheels that feature integrated buttons, paddles and quick connect hub.
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Fanatec sent the Xbox One compatible hub along with the CSW V2. The hub retails for $299.95 / 349.95€ or $399.95 / 479.90€ when paired with a rim.
Speaking of the Xbox One, we’re going to cover how this wheel performs on the Xbox One in a later review.
If you aren’t planning on racing on the Xbox One, the now discontinued standard hub can be purchased for $169.95. It’s essentially the same as the Xbox One hub but it only allows you to use the CSW V2 on the PC, PS4 and PS3.
Back to the wheel base, and the first thing you notice is it still sports the same attractive exterior as the V1. It truly is form follows function and sports a lot of aluminum and a heavy-duty plastic casing. This attractive look is also bolstered by little touches such as the black aluminum front plate with machined edges, illuminated START button and the now tinted acrylic cover that allows you to look at the belt driven internals.
The backside of the base features a new cooling fan, along with a hidden I/O featuring power, USB, and connections for pedals, hand brake, H-pattern shifter and sequential shifter. It not only supports all of Fanatec’s peripherals but can also support Logitech pedals with an optional adapter.
The base also comes with a 20o stand to give the wheel some rake if you prefer. The stand, along with the base, can only be hard mounted, which is the way to go for a higher end wheel like this.
The wheel still features 900o of rotation via the updated brushless servomotor. The belt mechanism has also been updated, and is now tighter to eliminate slipping and has new bearings to minimize drag. The wheel also features DirectSensor and DUAL HALL technology, both of which improve precision measurement of the wheel’s position and eliminates interference issues.
Following the bases’ lead, the hub is another exercise in form follows function. It utilizes a lot of metal and durable plastic, which is very noticeable once you pick it up and feel the weight.
The hub clearly marks itself as Xbox One compatible with an Xbox branded “Funky Stick” and green quick release ring. It is also compatible with the PC, PS4 and PS3. The hub features plenty of buttons, not only on the face but on top of the hub, a tuning/data screen that can be mounted in the down or up position and two sets of metal shifter paddles that can be adjusted in-and-out and for-to-aft. A large set for the standard size rims and a smaller set for more compact rims
The hub uses a 70 mm hole pattern for rims, meaning it will accept a plethora of Fanatec and non-Fanatec rims.
Now that we know what we’re working with, let’s talk about how the CSW V2 base and Xbox One hub performed on the PC and PS4.
Naturally, the wheel is supported by all the primary PC titles. On the PS4 it’s only supported by Project CARS and F1 2015, and soon WRC 5, and you must use the PS4 controller to navigate to the game. Once in game though, the hub becomes usable.
Once driving, we were pretty impressed with the CSW V2. Not only does it have strong FFB – in spite of the heavy hub – but it’s delivered very smoothly. It really did make some titles – like F1 2015 on the PS4 for example – come alive. The wheel is very precise, with no deadzone or slop.
A couple things that we didn’t care for though was the difficult to reach I/O panel and that the wheel only supports 8-bits of pedal resolution when plugged into the base, which doesn’t cut it if plugging directly into the PC isn’t an option for you. We would have liked to seen this upgraded from the V1 to 10-bits.
The only exception to the rule is the ClubSport Pedals V3’s, which register 10-bits when plugged into the CSW V2.
One of the nice features of the base and hub combo is the ability to be change wheel settings on the fly. Settings such as degree of rotation, ffb strength, ABS, deadzone, wheel force, drifting and more can be changed via the hub quickly and easily. It’s also nice to have the screen to see telemetry info while driving.
We also really liked the feel of the hub. It sports what we think are the nicest buttons in sim racing, which not only look great but also have a really positive click. Same goes for the paddles, which also feel very positive.
Another nice feature is the hub is the ability to customize it. Not only can it accept multiple rims but also the button boxes can be moved around to better fit the rims. The paddles also feature a lot of adjustability and come in two flavors, large and small, depending on what size wheel you’re using.
Another minor issue we have with the base/hub combo is the quick release mechanism. While the V2 quick release eliminates the pin from the V1, it’s a very, very tight fit. You have to really make sure you’re lined up, and even then, it takes some muscle.
With this said, it does raise the question of whether or not the quick release is really necessary? Sure it looks cool, but unless you have multiple expensive hubs or the BMW and/or the Formula rim with integrated quick releases, it’s not doing you any favors. For example, when we wanted to change rims, we had to pull the hub off, take out the bolts, take off the old rim, then remove the four bolts on the backside of the hub to allow access to the button boxes, loosen those up, move them, check to make sure they’re aligned with the new rim, re-tighten, put the hub bolts back in, grab the new rim and attach it.
There’s nothing quick about that. Since buying multiple rims for the hub is the most economic route to go, this is probably how many of you will change your wheels. We would like to think that Fanatec could save a lot of money for not only themselves, but also their customers, by ditching the quick release.
Pros
- Strong Force Feedback
- Very Smooth
- Looks Great
- Feels High End
- Really Nice Buttons and Paddles
- Customizable / tunable on the fly
- Only wheel on the market that can be compatible with PC, PS3, PS4 and Xbox One
- Compatible with Logitech pedals as well as Fanatec
- Can plug shifters in directly and with a Basher Boards adapter, you can even run the Thrustmaster TH8 shifters and others.
Cons
- Difficult to Reach I/O
- Low Pedal Resolution when Connected to Base
- Xbox One Universal Hub is Pricey (new CSL rim changes that)
- Quick Release That Isn’t Necessarily Quick unless you have multiple hubs or wheels that have the quick release
The Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base V2 is certainly a good wheel. We believe that the strength of the force feedback and the smoothness of the belt-driven motor justify the steep price.
What’s a little tougher to justify is the whole package once $400 worth of Universal Hub for the Xbox One and rim is added. While we really like the hub, it is expensive. With that said, the recently released CSL rim does ease some of the sticker shock and may be the best bang for your buck.
The CSW V2 is in a segment of it’s own in regards to pricing and performance. It fits comfortably between consumer wheels from Thrustmaster and Logitech, and, high-end wheels from the SimXperience and Frex’s of the world.
While the wheel feels a middle space in the market, it should really only be considered by those who are serious about PC sim racing, and may also like to fire up the console from time-to-time. Between the price and only 8-bits of resolution for the pedals when plugged into the base, buying a CSW V2 for only console racing would be a bit overkill.
But if PC sim racing is your hobby of choice, then the Fanatec ClubSport Wheel Base V2 should certainly be looked at.
There is an option for those who do not wish to hard mount the ClubSport Wheel Base V2. It is available on Fantatec’s website for an additional $49.95, under the category Wheel Stands / Table Clamps, called Clubsport Table Clamp V2 US.
I saw this and was going to go for it but am looking at the Next Level Wheel Stand as a slight upgrade instead due to concerns about my desk collapsing mid race.
If I remember correctly the weight on the table mount combined with the base and rim was going to be quite hefty!
Yes, the table clamp and wheel together is hefty, so if anyone elects this option, it needs to be attached to something strong.
Agreed. I’m going to stand by what we said in the review. If you’re going to this level of hardware, you need to be not only hard mounting it but insuring what you’re mounting to is very sturdy.
John, I just want to know if the FFB is stronger than the T500RS I have now? Is it worth the upgrade?
Honestly haven’t spent enough time with the T500 to give you a good answer. Will ask Darin to chime in. Did go back and forth the other day and the Fanatec was stronger but Darin said if we turned up the T500 they’d be similar. The CSW is a lot smoother, but to be fair, the T300 is smoother than the T500.
John…I do have the table clamp with the CSW V2 mounted to 1/2 inch MDF and it is rock solid. I built my own wheel stand/cart (it’s on locking wheels). When I bought everything, I wasn’t sure whether I was going to hard mount or not. I went with the table clamp just to have options. Heck I’m in for $1400, what’s another $50. I was experimenting with placement and thought the table clamp allowed more adjustability. That being said, the setup with the table clamp is heavy and the wheel forces can be strong, so unless you have a very solid platform, hard mounting is the right choice.
How would you compare it with a TX base in terms of performance & feeling?
The question behind would be for me ‘how much of a hardcore sim racer do you need to be to justify the price difference?’
Between a TX + 599xx wheel (EUR 460) and a CSW v2 + Hub and wheel (EUR 1230), we are talking about a EUR 770 difference, which is enough to buy a more than decent set of pedals + shifter + handbrake (funny thing, if you choose to buy at fanatec, you would pay 360 for pedals + 260 for shifter + 130 for handbrake for a total of…EUR 750)
I made that same jump and for me it has been worth it especially since I don’t ever have to deal with FFB fade on my TX again. If the TX had stayed reliable then the CSW V2 wont be miles ahead and probably not worth it even if you consider the aesthetics. I got my TX set for $230 off ebay while my fanatec set cost me $1600 before shipping.
In terms of performance, the TX is quite close in power but miles away in terms of sharpness. The CSW V2 also has far less rolling resistance and the auto calibrating sequence doesn’t try to kill the wheel whenever you boot it up.
I also love the fact that Fanatec products don’t lose much value even if you use it for a year. As long as it’s working perfectly, you can get 85% of the money you invested, if you ever have to sell in the future.
If I had to make the choice again, i’ll probably go with the new TX wheel base and ferrari rim then use the remaining cash to get an ultrawide monitor. I could always buy another TX base for $259, if my current one died and is being rma’d. It’s the smart choice.
Anyway, long story short, the TX will be perfect for your needs as a sim racer. The fanatec is more like a little more powerful and infinitely more luxurious and smoother TX.
I’ve just made the jump to a CSW v2 with CSL (Black Friday bundle) with CSP v3 pedals and am awaiting them eagerly. I am a bit confused though! In the forums on Fanatec there is a bit of talk about the CSP v3 pedals being 10 bit when connected to the base? Obviously they are 12 bit when directly connected to PC.
Is this a FW issue or are they actually only 8 bit as John and Darin said? I’m not sure they mentioned which pedals they were using either.
Can anyone confirm?
I purchased mainly because I love console racers such as Forza and Gran Turismo but also love PC sim racers like Assetto, iRacing etc. The cross compatibility really sold it.
Thomas from Fanatec confirmed with us that it’s 10-bit when you plug the CSP V3 into the V2 base only. All other pedals are 8-bit. We confirmed only getting 8-bit with the V2 pedals.
Ah that makes perfect sense. Thanks John.
I’ll be interested to see how the compatibility is with GT Sport next year too. Have only had Logitech G series up until now!
I must admit it’s a great product, but with problems too. Sadly, I have a problem with a custom FFB setup which kills the wheel force feedback only after 30 minutes of usage.
I’m using GTL and I’ve downloaded a modded FFB setup. Of course I’m going only at 70% of the wheel force (and the game effect themselves are set to 70% – so let’s say I’m using it at the 50% of its force).
Just done yesterday 3 laps in Magny Cours with a BMW CSL Alpina, and the fans where revving joyfully already.
It’s even worst when you take a Ferrari Berlinetta 250 GT SWB, since it’s a very physical car to drive (look at the ‘grand’ rubbers, compared to those of the AM DB4 GT, which slides FAR more): no more than fifteen minutes of driving, and the FFB and the effects are cut off completely.
Perhaps I should try/stick the GTL standard FFB setup. And experiment if I report the same problem.
I can’t realize how come these FFB ratios were designed for the Thrustmaster G500 in mind, though – an even weaker platform than the CSW V2!
Is this V1 or V2?
I’m speaking of the V2, of course, Tobi (I bought it in december 2014).
It’s still under warranty, I don’t know if this deserves a ‘sending to the base’ in order to proceed to a proper check – I mean, if it’s necessary a ticket opened – or it’s just the custom FFB setup that’s too demanding for the V2.
All I know it’s I’m sure it’s not an electrical problem, there’s a real heat generated by the internal frictions. So the wheel simply decide to … ‘log off’.
Perhaps too many inputs sent to the wheel, creating an hyperwork for the base? Maybe.
In the GT Legends wheel setup in fact, the level of feedback is set to ‘HIGH’: so I can feel the car passing on the kerbs and the bumps (plus the obvious effect of the car oversteering/understeering).
Still – I’m surprised how an old sim like GTL (still one of the most enriching) can put into a serious crisis an hardware like this.
If you like I can share my FFB data (I can’t remember if I downloaded the setup from here: http://www.nogripracing.com/details.php?filenr=41778).
The quick release CON is a joke. You cannot say the V1 and V2 quick release is a con, it works PERFECTLY as a quick release. You should say that changing the wheel over the Universal HUB is not quick and easy and it is for sure a con. 🙂 I work in the automotive industry and I ensure that If you eliminate the quick release mechanism it wouldn’t hardly save $100. My BMW GT2 wheel alcantara was destroyed after 2.5 years and also I had a paddle spring broken. I decided to buy another wheel to replace. It’s much better to spend $250 instead of $800.
We weren’t saying to eliminate the ability to change out rims. We just think that the current quick release system is overkill, and if you’re a universal hub owner only, it’s not that quick to change out rims and move the buttons.
That’s why we pointed to the Thrustmaster system which is simple and you can change out a wheel in 90 seconds. Something along those lines, a quick-ish system (which is what they have now unless you have bunch of BMW, F1 and universal hubs), is what we would like to see.
Essentially, we wanted the CSL rim, which we got yesterday, and that’s exactly how it works.